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No. 417,002. Patented Dec. 10,1889

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A. A. GUMING & E. J. PEIRCE, Jr.

WAX THREAD SEWING MAGHINE.

Patented Dec. 10, 1889.

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No. 417,002. Patented De 10 1889.

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WAX THREAD SEWING MACHINE. No. 417,002.

Patented Dec. 10, 1889.

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UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

ALFRED A. CUMING, OF HINGI'IAM, MASSACHUSETTS, AND EDIVIN J. PEIRCE, JR, OF VVOONSOGKET, RI-IODE ISLAND, ASSIGNORS TO THE \VARDYVELL SEWING MACHINE COMPANY, OF NEV YORK, N. Y. o

WAX-TH READ SEWING-MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 417,002, dated December 10, 1889.

Application filed June 30, 1888. Serial No. 278,681. (No model.) Patented in England January 23, 1889, No. 1,275.

1o specification.

The present invention relates to that class of sewing-machines adapted to employ two threadsan upper and under thread-in theformation of the stitches; and it consists in [5 the novel structure hereinafter fully set forth, and which are also contained in the following-named foreign Letters Patent-to wit, English, No. 1,275, January 23, 1889.

In the drawings, Figures 1 to S, inclusive,

20 are diagrams, in perspective and side elevation, illustrating the operation of the sewing and feeding instrumentalities and the manner in which the stitches are formed; and

Figs. 9 and 10 are sectional views illustrate 5 ing the looped and formed stitch and the po sition the loops occupy between the two surfaces of the fabric. Fig. 11 is a side elevation of a machine embodying the present improvements.

o vation of the major portion of the machine,

looking from the opposite side ofthat shown in Fig. 11. Fig. 13 is an enlarged plan vlew.

Fig. 14 is an enlarged horizontal sect-ion taken on the line a. a of Fig. 11. Fig. 15 is an enlarged side elevation of the instrumentalithe lower portion of the instruinentalities shown in Fig. 17. Fig. 19 is an enlarged cross-sectional elevation through the over- Fig. 12 is an enlarged side ele hanging arm, taken on the line 0 c of Fig. 11. Fig. 20 is an enlarged horizontal section taken on the line (1, Fig. 11, showing particularly the carrier H and the awl-driving lever. Fig. 21 is a vertical section, taken on the line 6 e of Fig. 17, showing particularly the 5 5 devices for raising the presser-foot bar; and Fig. 22 is a horizontal section of the same, taken on the line fof Fig. 21. Fig. 23is an enlarged sectional elevation of the upper portion of the swinging frame G and the horn. Fig. 2a is a perspective view of the horn, its case being removed to expose its thread carrier and deflector. Fig. 25 is a front elevation of a portion of the horn and its thread carrier and deflector. Fig. 26 is a cross-sectional elevation taken centrally through the take-up disk I, shown in Fig. 23; and Fig. 27 is an elevation of said disk, looking at one end of its central slot. Fig. 28 is a rear elevation, and Fig. 29 a plan view, of the cams upon the main driving-shaft and their immediate connections. Fig. 30 is a sectional elevation of one of the pivotal connections between a pair of levers or a lever and rod.

Before describing the parts of the machine 7 5 which impart movement to those devices which operate directly upon the material to be sewed and upon the threads I will describe the construction and operation of the said devices in connection with the material and thread, referring for this purpose to the digramrnatic views Figs. 1 to 10.

The fabric to be sewed is designated by X, and is shown in section in Figs. 1 to 5, 9, and 10, in order to illustrate the effects of the awl and positions of the threads, the section being on the line of stitching, and the work-plate 2 is represented as being supported by a hollow case Ain the form of a horn,'within which are arranged a reciprocating thread-carrier 3 and a vibrating thread-deflector 4:, that is pivoted to the carrier to reciprocate therewith, the carrier having an eye 5 for the passage of the thread or, which is conducted from below through suitable guides from the wa v- 5 pot, asset forth hereinafter. The work-plate has a central opening 6, and above the workplate are supported the awl B, needle 0, upper thread-carrier D, and loop-holderE. (See Figs. 6, 7, and 8.) The awl B is carried by an awl-bar 7, which has a vertically-reciprocating motion and which moves back and forth in the direction of the double arrow 1, Fig. 1, as does also the needle-bar 8, and both the awl and the needle-bar have also a reciprocating movement at right angles to the line of the movement. indicated by the arrow 1, and a direction parallel to the line of the stitching. The thread-carrier D carries the upper thread y, having two eyes, through which the said thread is passed, and being curved to correspond substantially with a circle constituting the fulcrum of an arm 9, which supports the carrier, and'at the outer side of the carrier, near the point, is a notch 10, for the purpose described hereinafter. The loop-holder E, Figs. (5, 7, and 8, is carried by an arm 11, which rocks around a vertical axis, so as to carry the loop-holder in a curved path at about right angles to that of the thread-carrier D.

Assuming that the abovedescribed devices have operated to perform a part of a line of stitches, that one stitch is complete, the lower thread 00 extending upward from the eye 5 of the lower thread-carrier 3 past the hook of the deflector 4, which is in the position shown in Fig. 1, and that the upper thread also extends from the carrier D to the fabric, the operations of forming an additional stitch will be as follows: The awl B will be carried 1 to the right to a point distant from the preric, which is now effected by the movement of the awl in a line at right angles to that illdicated by the arrow 1 until the awl is vertically above the opening 6 in the work-plate. The awl now descends completely through the fabric into the opening of the work-plate far enough to make the desired opening for the passage of the needle, after which the awl ascends until its point is above the fabric. The awl and needle then move back in the line of the arrow 1 untilthe needle is directly above the awl-hole, when the needle descends through the fabric. I

Prior to the entrance of the needle into the opening in the fabric the deflector 4 is swung to the left in the direction of the arrow, as shown in Fig. 3, carrying the lower thread a: away from the lower carrier to the position shown in Fig. 3, and after the needle has deos'scended to its full extent the carrier and deflector together are moved forward in the direction of the arrow, Fig. 4, thereby carrying the transverse portion of the thread a: into the notch of the needle. As the needle ascends it draws a loop of the thread 00 upward through the opening in the fabric, as shown in Fig. 5, and above the same, as shown in Fig. 6, when the movement of the needle is arrested, and the upper thread-carrier D, swingingin the direction of the arrow, Fig. 6, penetrates the loop of thread 00, carrying with it the upper thread y, and the loop-holder E, then swinging to the right, passes below the upper thread-carrier D, through the notch 10, and between the thread-carrierD and thread 3 to hold it, the notch 10 enabling it to pass over the thread y without catching the latter. The upper carrier D now swings forward in the direction of the arrow, Fig. 7, leaving a loop of the upper thread y upon the holder E and extending through the loop of the lower thread 03, as shown in said figure, after which the needle C, moving both downward and forward to the position shown in Fig. 8, disengages itself from the loop of thread 00, the loop-holder Eholding the thread y until the take-up (hereinafter described) has drawn the loop of the thread 00 down to the surface of the fabric, when it will move back, disengaging itself from the loop of said thread y. Thus the thread 00 is drawn downward into the fabric, as in Fig. 9, holding the loopthread y in a doubled loop, and, being further drawn downward, carries it into the fab- Q It will be evident that different mechanisms may be employed for imparting the above-described series of operations to the awl, needle, and thread-carriers, and that the lower thread may be deflected by different means than those described, so as to hold it in position to carryit into the notch of the needle. \Ve will, however, now describe means for effecting these results, which we have found to be very effective in practical operation.

The operating parts are supported by a frame consisting of a hollow standard F, Figs. 11 and 12, enlarged at the lower end to constitute a suitable base, and extended at the upper end to form an arm 13, and having lateral arms 214 and 215, between which is pivoted the frame G, that supports the born A, the latter extending upward and over the arm 214 to hold the work-plate 2 with its central opening in a line with the axis of the frame G.

The needle-bar S and the awl-bar 7 are fitted to slide vertically inbearings in a movable carrier H, which is a movable hinged portion of the'arm 13, the said movable portion being connected to the body of the arm by a vertical pivot 14, as shown in Figs. 11 to 14, upon which pivot the carrier swings back and forth to carry both the needle and the awl to and from the remaining fixed por- IIS tion of the arm 13. This lateral movement of the carrier is imparted by the longitudinal reciprocation of a wedge 15, carried by a bar 16, connected with a lever 17, pivoted to a stud 18 upon the standard, and the saidlever 17 is reciprocated by a cam upon the driving-shaft 19 in a manner too apparent to need description. The wedge is arranged between an upturned flange 20 upon the frame 13, Figs. 14 and 19, and a bearing 21 of the carrier H, and the bevel is at one side, as shown in Fig. 14, so that the backward movement of the wedge will permit the carrier H to swing inward toward the arm to an extent which may be limited to any desired degree by means of an adjusting-screw 221, passing through the flange 20, the reverse movement being imparted by a spring 22, confined within a box within the frame, as shown in Fig. 19, and bearing upon the side of the carrier H. The swinging movement thus imparted to the carrier imparts a similar movement to the awl, by means of which the feeding of the fabric is effected, the extent therefore of the feed being limited by the position of the adj Listing-screw 221.,which regulates the play of the carrier 11.

The backward and forward movement of the needle-arm and needle-bar, whereby the needle is brought into line with the opening previously punched by the awl, is effected by the reciprocation of a slide 25, in which the needle-bar and awl-bar have their bearings, the said slide being fitted to hearings in the carrier H, as shown in Fig. 20.

The reciprocation of the slide in the direction of its arrow, Fig. 20, is effected by means of a lever 26, Figs. 11, 13, and 20, pivoted at 27 to the carrier H, and carrying a stud 28, which enters an ogee cam-groove 29 in the side of the slide 25, so that as the forward end of the lever moves up and down the stud 28 will bear upon the sides of the camgroove and reciprocate the slide back and forth, bringingthe awl and needle alternately in line with the opening 6 in the work-plate. The lever 26 is also used as a means for imparting the vertical reciprocating movement to the awl-bar, a stud 30 on thelatter extending into a slot 31 in the end of the lever.

The needle-bar 8 is reciprocated vertically by means of a lever 32, swinging upon a pin extending into the arm 13, Fig. 12, the lever 32 having a slot 34, receiving a stud 35 from the needle-bar.

The means for imparting vibration to the lever 32 will be fully set forth hereinafter.

The rocking movement imparted to the shaft 36, that carries the arm 9, supporting the upper thread-carrier D, is effected by means of a reciprocating rod 37, connected to an upwardly-extending arm 38, that is reciprocated by the vibration of a lever 35), operated by a cam upon the shaft 19. (See Figs. 12, 15 to 18.)

The shaft 36, that operates the thread-carrier, has its bearings in a bracket on the lower end of the presser-bar 41, carrying a presser-foot 42 and extending upward through hearings in the arm 13, and the said bracket also carries the vertical shaft 43, to which is connected the arm 11, supporting the loopholder E, so that whatever may be the adj ustment of the presser-foot the upper threadcarrier and the loop-holder will always maintain their relative positions. 1

The loop-holder shaft 43 is provided with an arm 44, to which is connected through a ball-and-socket joint a rod 45, that is in turn connected at its'opposite end through a similar joint to a rock-lever 46, vibrating upon a bracket 47, extending from the standard, and a rod 48, Figs. 12 and 14, connects the lever 46 with another lever 49, pivoted at its lower end to the standard and vibrated by a cam upon the shaft 19.

The presser-bar and with it the presserfoot are lifted by means of a lever 50, pivoted to a stud at the top of the arm 13 and connected by a rod 51 to a treadle 52. The lever is not connected positively to the presserbar, but is connected by a link 3 to a short cam-lever 53, pivoted between the arms of a yoke 54, which embraces the presser-bar 41 and receives a loose block 55, against which the end of the cam-lever 53 is brought to bear when the lever 50 is raised, thereby causing the block and the yoke to bite against the presser-bar when the lever 50 is lifted, so that the presser bar willbe carried with it. (See Figs. 21 and 22.) When the presser-bar descends and the presser-foot takes its bearing upon the fabric, the yoke may slide downward into contact with the arm 13, and however thick or thin the fabric may be, the next movement of the cam to elevate the presser-foot will always lift it to the same extent above the goods. If the extent of the movement of the presser-foot above the goods is fixed at, say, one-tenth of an inch, the presser'foot after being seated upon the fabric will be lifted to that extent by the cam action to ease the fabric for feeding, as before described, this lifting being effected just before the awl moves upward on its first lifting movement prior to carrying the fabric forward to bring the awl in line with the opening in the work-plate.

In order to enable us to employ a small awl and avoid the necessity of depending upon the size and stiffness of the awl to prevent it from being deflected in the act of feeding the fabric, we provide a bearing for the awl at a point below that to which the point of the awl rises and as close as possible to the surface of the fabric. As shown, Figs. 15 to 18, the bearing consists of a bent rod 170,sli.ding in cars 171 and 1'2 upon the slide 177, with its lower end in a position to bear against the side of the awl when the latter is in the fab ric. A projection or cross-pin 173, Fig. 18,

a spring 175 throws down the bearing 170 when the presser-foot is depressed. It is necessary to lift the presser-fo'ot slightly before theawl makes its first liftingmovements to ease the fabric from the work-plate prior to feeding it forward, and this movement of the presser-foot is effected by the vibration of the lever 50 through the medium of a link 57, having a slot through which the shaft 15) passes to guide it, and another slot 58 to re ccive a stud 59, carried by the lever 50 and reciprocated by means of a cam, Fig. 28, upon the driving-shaft 10. The lever 50 is raised at the forward end by the descent of the link 57, the slot 58 in thelink permitting an independent movement of the lever 50 under the action of the treadle, so that the presser-foot may be lifted by means of the treadle, whatever may be the position of the presser-foot upon the goods during the operation of the machine.

In order to regulate with ease and precision the extent to which the presser-foot is lifted by the cam above the fabric, the link 57 is provided with an adjusting-screw (30, extending through the upper end of the slot 58,

thereby limiting the play of the stud in said slot.

As the frame G, carrying the horn A, is pivoted to the standard F, as described, the said horn may be swung around its center to the various positions necessary to present a boot or shoe properly to the operating devices, and in order to operate the lower thread guide and deflector, whatever. may be the position of the'horn, we impart the movements to these parts through the medium of heads 63 64 65, sliding upon a vertical line coincident with the axis of the frame G. As shown, the said heads slide upon a shaftor bar 66, extending between the arms of the frame G, and each head is in the form of a spool or bobbin,between the flanges of which extends a stud upon a lever carried by the frame. As shown, there are two levers 67 (i8, pivoted to the frame G on opposite sides thereof, the lever 67 being connected by a rod (59 with a block '70, to which is attached the threadcarrier 3, as best shown in Figs. 23 to 25,and the lever 68 is connected by a rod '71 to a block 72, carrying a stud 73, that enters an angular slot 74: in the lower end of the deflector 4:. The two levers reciprocate together to carry the lower thread carrier and deflector to and from the opening in the work-plate; but when the deflector has to swing to one side the movement of the lever (37 is arrested, while that of the lever 68 is continued, thereby causing the stud 73 to traverse the slot 74 and vibratingthe deflector 4.

It will be seen that by the use of the sliding thread carrier and deflector and by imparting the vibration or takeup action to the dcfiector we are enabled to arrange these parts So as to work effectually within the limited area possible-in a small curved horn of a character adapted to operate within shoes of the smallest dimension, and that the movements imparted are positive, uniform, and simple in their character.

In the peculiar class of stitch heretofore referred to it is essential to effective and uniform work that each loop of the upper thread shall be drawn into the fabric to the same extent from the surface as every other loop. If the fabric were of uniform thickness, the adjustment of the parts so as to produce a single stitch of the proper character would be suflicient, as the succeeding stitches would simply be duplicates in their positions of the first; but in the class of fabrics upon which the machine above described is intended to operate the thickness of the material that is passed over the work-plate varies from time to time and to a very material extent, so that Without some automatic adjustment of the operating parts the loops of upper thread would be drawn too far into the fabric where it Was thickest and not far enough at the thinnest portions.

In order to secure the uniform action desired, we provide means whereby the upward throw or movement of the needle varies according to the thickness of the fabric, so that the loop of lower thread is always drawn to the same extent above the surface of the fabric, which, in the case of a fabric of varying thickness, will be a varying extent above the surface of the work-plate, and a ta-k e-up having a uniform action is employed, so that after the parts are once ad justcd to produce the desired stitch the loop of lower thread will always be drawn downward to the'same extent below the surface of the fabric, whatever may be the varying position of the surface as re gards its distance from the work-plate, and thereby each loop of upper thread is drawn into the fabric to precisely the same extent below the surface as the other loops.

Different means may be employed for anton'latically regulating the movements of the needle to maintain the same upward draft from the surface of the fabric. \Ve will now proceed to describe those which have proved to be very effective. In order to effect this result, we vary the fulcrum of the lever which drives the needle-bar by means of a connection with the presser-foot or other bearing upon. the surface of the fabric in such manner that in proportion as the said foot is lifted by an increase in the thickness of the fabric the fulcrum will be changed to lift the needle to a corresponding extent, and When the said fulcrum or piece is lowered by a decrease in the thickness of the fabric the fulcrum will be varied to limit the upward movement of the needle to a corresponding extent. An effective arrangement for securing this result is shown in Fig. 12, in which there is a lever 80, pivoted to a stud 81 at the side of the arm 13 and provided with a slot 82 in the end, which end overlaps the end of the lever 32,

that operates the needle-bar, and a stud passes through the slot 82 and through a slot 81- in the overlapping end of the lever 32, and is connected to an arm 85. jointed to the lower end of a lever 86, pivoted to the head of the machine and having a curved slot 87, receiving a stud 88, extending laterally from the Presser-bar. The arrangement of these parts is such that when the presscr-bar is raised the lever will be swung in the direction of its arrow, drawing forward the stud 83, thereby shortening the effective working-arm of the lever 32, to which motion is imparted from the lever 80, and correspondingly lengthening the arm of the lever 80 and increasing the throw of thelever 32 and correspondingly increasing the upward throw of the needle, a reverse movement of the presser-bar resulting in throwing back the stud 83 and decreasing the extent of the upward movement of the lever. The extent to which the needle is moved downward, however, is never varied, because when the overlapping arms of the levers 80 and 32 are at the limit of their upward movements the slots 82 and 84.- will coincide and be parallel, so that any movement of the stud 83 therein will not have any effect in varying the relative positions of the needle.

If the movement of the needle were depended upon to control the delivery of the lower thread from the thread-holder, any increased elevation of the needle would result in drawing the thread through the hook of the needle during its passage through the fabric and above the same, and would result in fraying and weakening the thread; or, if a constant amount of thread were drawn by the lower looping mechanism to supply the needle in its ascent through and above the leather, which amount would necessarily be sufficient only for a given thickness of fabric sewed any increase in its thickness would result in a rendering of the thread through the hook of the needle and a consequent chafing of its thread. To avoid this we vary the movements of the thread-controllers within the horn, so that when the fabric increases in thickness and the loop must be carried to an increased extent from the work-plate the said thread-controllers will, after laying the thread around the needle, draw back to an. increased extent, theeby drawing an extra quantity of thread from the thread-holder below, forming a loop of extra length, which is delivered as the needle moves upward through the fabric and is carried upward therewithin the form of a loop without any material sliding movement of the thread through the hook of the needle.

In order to automatically vary the draft of the threadcontr0ller to correspond to themcreased upward movement of the needle, we connect the devices which impart the sliding movement to the said controller with the devices which regulate the movements of the needle. Thus, as shown in Fig. 12, the

heads 04 and 65 are reciprocated-upon the rod 66, respectively, by levers and 91, pivoted to the standard, and each deriving its movement through a sliding bearing on the lever vibrated from a cam upon the shaft 19. Thus the lever 90 is slotted at the inner end and is overlapped by the slotted end of the lever 99, and a sliding bearing-pin 93, which extends through the slots of both levers, is carried by a slide 9i between the prongs of a forked arm 95, pivoted to a rock-shaft 96, passing through the standard. ()11 the opposite end of the shaft 96, Fig. 11, is a similar but shorter forked arm 97, carrying a slide 98, provided with a bearing-pin 99, which passes through the slots in the overlapping ends of the lever 91, and a lever 100, swinging upon the same stud 18 as does the lever 92. A rod 101 extends from the lever to an operating-cam carried by the shaft 19, and a rod 102 extends from the lever 92 to an operating-cam, also carried by the shaft 19.

By swinging the shaft 96 the bearings 93 99 are changed in position, so as to vary the throw of the levers 90 91 67 68 and correspondingly vary the reciprocation of the lower thread-controller, and the position of the shaft 96 is controlled by the position of the stud 83 by connections between them, as best illustrated in Fig. 12. Thus a lever 104,pivoted to the side of the arm 13, is connected by a rod to the lever 86, that controls the position of the stud 83, and the said lever 104 is also connected by a rod 106 with an arm 107, upon the shaft 90. As aresult of this arrangement, when the presscr-foot and its bar rise and swing the lower end of the lever 30 forward, thereby causing an increased elevation of the needle, the shaft 96 is swung in the direction of its arrow and the bearings 93 99 are shifted, so as to impart an increased throw to the levers 90, 91, 67, and 6S, and thereby draw back the thread-controller and increase the distance from the needle corresponding in extent to the increase in the length of the loop which is supplied to the needle.

While we have described a certain arrangement of levers and shifting-bearings therefor, it will be evident that any skilled mechanic may vary such arrangements without departing from the main features of our invention, consisting in interposing between the thread controller and its actuating device and between the needle and its actuating device variable connections controlled by the position of the surface of the fabric,so as to vary the extent to which the needle rises above the work-plate and maintain a uniform movement above the surface of the fabric, and so as to vary the extent of the loop drawn round the needle below the worlcplate to correspond to the extent to which the loop must be drawn above the work-plate.

By bending the horn and the thread-controllers within the horn to a curve extending from the angle of the horn into a horizontal plane at the end we are enabled to introduce the horn into the contracted ends of this without woundingor strainingthe upper in any degree. p

B )roducin the drawin and s readin tn 6 b actions by a sliding movement of the controller instead of rotary movements, as heretofore, we are enabled to eifect the desired results within a much more contracted space than would otherwise be practicable.

' In order to permit easy access to the threadcontroller, we make the upper portion of'the horn in the form of a curved arm or base 107, (see Figs. 23 and 24,) which carries the threadcontroller, and of a pivoted case or cap 108, which covers the thread-controller and carries the work-plate, the said cap being pivoted to the outside of the horn at the lower end, so that it can be thrown outward to the position shown in dotted lines, Fig. 12, without contact with any of the parts carried by the overhanging arm of the machine.

In order to avoid the necessity of uncovering the thread-controller by lifting the case 108, we extend the ends of the thread carrier and deflector beyond the arm 107, as shown in Fig. 23, and provide aguiding-slot 160 and guide-roller 100 at the inside of said arm, so that the thread can be conducted along the said arm on the inside and over the roller 109, directly through the eye of the carrier.

WVhen waxed threads are used, we provide two wax-pots, one 110 adjacent to the overhanging arm for the passage of the upper thread, and another 111 for the passage of the lower thread, the pot 111 being arranged Within a recess in the frame G, and each pot is provided with a suitable stripper, and guides are properly arranged to conduct the threads from the strippers to the upper th readearrier and to the horn,

In order to maintain the wax' upon the upper thread in a soft condition, we arrange in immediate proximity to the parts operating upon the upper thread adjacent to the presser-foot a hollow steam-casing, to and from which steam is conducted by means of a pair of steam-pipes 112, the inlet-pipe being provided with a cock 113, by means of which the steam may be cut off or regulated, and in order to prevent strain or fracture of the pipes from the movement of the presser-foot the said pipes are bent at their rear ends into coils, as shown in Figs. 12 and 14, so as to permit them to spring sut'ficiently to accommodate the movements of the parts to which they are connected. In the construction shown the steam-case is formed by making a portion of the bracket 40 hollow and connecting the pipes with this hollow portion. The

wax upon the lowerthread is maintained soft by means of a steam-pipe 114, extending along the horn upon one side and downward along .the other side in proximity to the course of the thread.

Inasmuch as the presser-foot and parts carried thereby are movable vertically and the connecting-rods by which movements are imparted to these parts are connected with levers upon the stationary frame of the machine, we make the connections by ball-andsocket joints, permitting the necessary changes of angles without straining to the varying positions.

Any desired form of take-up may be employed in connection with the lower thread, which is the only thread that is necessary to be drawn upon for the purpose of forming the loop. e will now describe one which has proved most effective in connection with appliances for imparting variable action according to the amount of thread required to be delivered.

The take-up is carried by the frame G at the base of the horn A, and consists, essentially, of a disk I, having a transverse slot 116 across one face and two studs or rollers 117 118-arranged opposite the edge of the disk upon opposite sides. The thread on is passed through the slot 116, across one side of the roller 118, and across the other of the roller 117, and so long as the slot 116 is in a line with the bearing-faces of the rollers the thread can pass freely without resistance; but when the disk is turned in the direction of the arrow, Fig. 23, the thread is laid upon the edge of the disk upon opposite sides, creating a frictional resistance to' the movement of the thread, which resistance is increased, so as to absolutely prevent any movement by forming a narrow V-shaped notch 119 at the edge of the disk, and into which the thread is drawn as the disk turns to carry the slot 116 away from the roller 117. The extent to which the disk may be turned will determinethe extent to which the thread is drawn from a wax-pot around the roller 11S and from the threadcontroller around the roller 117, and by varying the extent of the rocking motion of the disk the desired amount of thread is taken up, and when the disk is returned to its position with the slot 116 in line with the bearing-faces of the rollers the thread can again pass freely and without obstruction. As the rocking disk will draw upon the wax-pot more than is necessary to supply the next stitch, we pass the thread between the wax-pot and the take-up through the eye of a spring-arm 120, which, as the disk rocks back to its first position, will take up any slack, prevent the thread from escaping from the roller 11.7, and will yield with a nominal resistance when the thread is drawn through the slot 116.

One means of imparting movement to the take-up disk I is through the medium of a pinion. 121 upon the shaft 122 of the said disk, gearing with a toothed rack 123 upon the end of alever 124, pivoted to the side of the frame G with a stud at the end that enters between the flanges of the head 63, which is reciprocated upon the rod 66 by the vibration of a lever 125, pivoted to the frame of the machine. The lever 125 derives its motion. from the vibration of a lever 126, to which is connected a rod 127, Fig. 11, leading to an operating cam upon the shaft 19. The extent of the vibration of the levers operating the rack 123 may be varied by adjusting a stud 128 in a slot in the lever 126, the said stud entering a slot in the lever 125.

At different points in the above machine where levers are connected to actuatinglinks or rods we secure a nice adjustment, so as to time all the movements with extreme accuracy, by making the connections adjustable. The means of effecting this adjustment are illustrated in Fig. 30, in which R represents one of the levers, and S one of the connecting-rods and T the connectingpin. The pin T extends through the lever R, and may be turned by a head 135 and secured in any position by means of a set-screw 136, or by any other device. From the end of the pin T projects an eccentric stud 137, which extends through a connecting-rod S, and is headed or otherwise constructed to maintain the latter upon the eccentric stud. By loosening the nut 136 and turning the pin T the stud 137is carried to or from the fulcrum of the lever, thereby varying with great nicety the extent of movement imparted to the lever by the reciprocation of the rod S.

\Ve have referred to the different parts of the machine as being operated from the cams on the driving-shaft 19. There are three of these cams U V \V, illustrated diagrammatic ally in Figs. 28 an d 29, and each cam is grooved upon the opposite faces for the reception of anti-friction studs extending from the adjacent rods and levers. ,Thus the cam \V has upon one face two grooves to receive the studs upon the levers 39 and 49, and on the opposite face two grooves to receive the studs upon the connecting-rods 57 and 102. The cam V has a groove upon one face to receive a stud upon the needle-operating lever 80, and a groove upon the opposite face to receive a stud upon the awl-operating lever 26. The cam U has upon one face two grooves to receive studs upon the lever 17, from which movement is imparted to the wedge 15, and a stud on the rod 101, from which movement is imparted to the thread-controller, and on the opposite side with a groove to receive a stud on the rod 127, that operates the takeup.

\Vithout limiting ourselves to the precise construction and arrangement of parts shown, we claim- 1. The combination, in a sewing-machine, of a work-plate and arranged above the workplate a reciprocating awl, a reciprocating needle and movable supports therefor, whereby the awl and needle may be brought, re-

spectively, over the opening in the work-plate,-

a reciprocating thread-carrier arranged above the work-plate in position to penetrate the loop held by the needle, and a reciprocating loop-holder, also above the work-plate, arranged in position to engage the thread carried by the tlu'ead-carrier, substantially as set forth. i

2. The combination, with a horn carrying a perforated work-plate, and a lower-thread controller below the same, of a reciprocating and vibrating awl, a reciprocating and vibrating hooked needle, and reciprocating upperthread carrier and loop-holder, all arranged above the work-plate, substantially as set forth.

The combination, with the work-plate and a controller carrying and operating a lower thread, of an overhanging arm supporting a reciprocating needle, vibrating upperthread carrier, vibrating looper, a presserfoot, and a reciprocating awl and support therefor, and means, substantially as described, for vibrating said support with the awl to feed the fabric, substantially as set forth.

4. The combination, with the reciprocating perforating and feeding awl and perforated worlnplate, of awl'operatin g mechanism, substantially as described, whereby the following movements are imparted to the awl: first, a partial downward movementto penetrate the fabric without passing through the same, then a vibrating movement to feed the fabric, and then a further downward movement to pass entirely through the fabric and through the opening in the work-plate, substantially as described.

5. The combination of the reciprocating needle, an upper-thread carrier, a loop-holder reciprocating in a horizontal plane below the path of the upper-thread carrier, all above the work-plate, and a thread-carrier and a thread-deflector below the work-plate, substantially as described.

6. The combination, in a sewing-machine having an upper hooked needle, of the workplate, a horn curved at the upper end and supporting the work-plate, and a reciprocating thread-controller having an eye and a thread-deflector, and operating devices whereby the controller lays the thread in the hook of the needle, said controller arranged within the curved horn, substantially as set forth.

7. The combination, with the hollow horn curved at the upper end, and a hook-needle supported above the horn, of a thread-controller consisting of a thread-carrier and a laterally-movable thread-deflector, substantially as described.

8. The combination, with a reciprocating hook-needle and perforated work-plate, of a thread-controller carrying the lower thread arranged below the work-plate and consisting of a thread-carrier and a movable thread-deflector pivoted upon the carrier, and means, substantially as described, for moving thedeflector laterally with respect to the carrier, substantially as described. I

9. The combination, with the reciprocating hook-needle and perforated work-plate, of a hollow bent horn supporting the work-plate, and a thread-controller for the lower thread supported and operated within the horn, said thread-controller consisting of a longitudinally-reciprocating thread-carrier and a vibrating thread-distender, each bent to conform with the curve of the horn, substantially as described.

10. The combination, with the curved and hollow horn,of a thread-controller consisting of a curved thread-carrier and a thread-distender pivoted thereto, a rod connected with the thread carrier and with an operatinglever below the horn, and another rod connected with another lever below the horn and carrying a stud bearing upon the camedge of the thread-distender, substantially as set forth.

11. The frame G, carrying a horn, a threadcontroller and levers connected to operate the thread-controller and other appliances upon the frame, in combination with reciprocating heads having their bearings axially in line with-the axis of the frame and provided with bearings for the said levers, substantially as set forth.

12. The combination of the frame G, swinging upon a vertical axis and carrying a horn and thread-controller, and operating-lever 67 68 therefor,and a vertical rod in line with the axis of the frame and reciprocating heads upon said rod having bearings upon the said levers, substantially as set forth.

13. The combination, with the swinging frame, thread-controller, and take-up, of a lever connected tooperate the take-up, and a reciprocating head having a bearing for said lever in line with the axis of the frame, substantially as set forth.

14. The combinatiomwith the slotted takeup disk I, of a pinion 121, connected with the disk, and a rack-lever gearing with the pin ion and supported upon a swinging frame G, having bearings for the disk-shaft, and a reciprocating head moving upon bearings in line with the axis of the frame and having bearings for the end of the rack-lever, substantially as set forth.

15. The combination, with a horn and a thread-controller supported thereby, ot' a cap covering the tln'ead-controller and hinged to the born to swing to and from the same, substantially as set forth.

16. The combination, with the horn and thread-controller supported thereby and with the work-plate, of ahinged casing supporting the work-plate and covering the thread-controller, substantially as set forth.

17. The combination, in a sewing-machine provided with an upper thread and a lower thread, of a reciprocating needle above the work-plate, and a Vertically-adj ustable presser-bar carrying a presser-foot, and a reciprocatingupper-thread carrier and reciprocating loop-holder supported by the presser-bar, and reciprocating lower-thread carrier below the work-plate, substantially as set forth.

18. The combinatiomwith the upper-thread carrier, loop-holder, and with the presser-foot of a sewing-machine, of a vertically-adjustable presser-bar having bearings for the shafts of the threadcarrier and Loop-holder, and operating-levers upon the frame of the machine, and connecting-rods between said levers and said shafts provided with universal jointed connections, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

19. The combination, with the adjustable presser-bar, of a movable bracket supporting the presser-footand the shafts of a threadcarrier and a loop-holder, and a steam-casing attached to and moving with said bracket and communicating with inlet and outlet ric, and movable bearings between the needle bar and controller and their operating appliances connected with said foot, whereby the extent of the movements of the needle bar and controller are regulated by the position of said foot, substantially as set forth.

22. The combination, with the thread-controller, of levers 00 and 91, driving-levers 92 and 100, a movable bearing between the levers and 92, and with a movable bearing between the levers 91 and 100, a verticallymovable foot bearing upon the fabric, and connections between said foot and said movable bearing, substantially as set forth.

23. The combination, with the lower-thread controller, levers 90 and 91, from which move ments are imparted to the thread-controller, of overlapping driving-levers pivoted at separate points, the overlapping portions of the lovers being slotted and bearings movable in said slots, and a movable presser-foot and connections between the said bearings and the said presser-foot, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

2%. The combination, in a sewing-machine, of a work-plate, a stationary overhanging arm carrying the upper-thread carrier and looper, reciprocating needle and awl bars, and a carrier therefor pivotally supported at one side of the overhanging arm and adapted to swing laterally with said needle and awl bars, substant ally as described.

25. The combination, with the overhanging arm of a sewing-machine, of a pivoted wing constituting a carrier for the needle and awl bars, and a reciprocating wedge moving in contact with the bearing of said carrier to reciprocate the same laterally, substantially as set forth.

movable slide, in which reciprocate the needle and awl bars, and a lever pivoted to said carrier connected with one of said bars and provided with a stud-bearing upon the cam edge of the slide, substantially as set forth,

ALFRED A. GUMING. EDWIN J. PEIRCE, JR. \Vitnesses to Owning:

THos. VVM. CLARKE, F. 1-1. BISHOP. Vitnesses to Peirce:

CHAS. H. REEVES, JEFFERSON ALDRICH. 

